The exhibition "Korean Embroidery in Modern Times" being held at the Deoksugung Gallery of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea (Courtesy of the MMCA)

Korean embroidery is a traditional craft that uses needles and colorful threads to decorate fabrics. It has developed unique and beautiful styles through exchanges with other East Asian countries over the course of 2,000 years. However, due to the delicate nature of the materials, few ancient artifacts have survived, and most of the traditional embroidery we have today dates from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

A special National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA) exhibition – "Korean Embroidery in Modern Times: The Birds Trying to Catch the Sun" – presents the progression of Korean embroidery from various perspectives, running from the late 1800s to late 1900s. The MMCA carefully selected about 220 pieces, including archival materials, created by Korea's embroidery masters. However, it was quite a challenge for the museum to collect these works, as many of them are in poor condition for display.

"Jeongya" (Nocturne), Kim Hye-kyung, 1949; embroidery on silk, 92×66 cm; part of the Kim family collection

Exhibition rooms 1 and 4 showcase traditional crafts, while Exhibition rooms 2 and 3 highlight the art of embroidery, which has a rich history spanning more than a century. For example, Exhibition Room 1 features treasures and folding screens decorated with Joseon embroidery that were displayed at the first Chicago World's Fair in 1893. Moving forward in history, Exhibition Room 3 showcases a variety of works created by female artists in the 20th century.

"Birds Trying to Catch the Sun," Choi Yoo-hyun, 1968; embroidery on silk, 148×238.2 cm; from the artist's collection 

Historically, embroidery was considered woman's work. The exhibition shows how it evolved from a classroom activity to a respected craft and art form, highlighting the contributions of women. In particular, the exhibition focuses on Korean women who studied embroidery at the Tokyo Women's Art College (now the Women's College of Fine Arts) during the Japanese colonial period. 

The exhibition revisits Korean modern and contemporary embroidery through the perspective of contemporary art. (Courtesy of the MMCA)

After Korea's liberation from Japan, the establishment of an Embroidery Department at Ewha Womans University was an important milestone in the history of Korean needlework. In fact, embroidery played a crucial role in modernization efforts such as restoring national identity, moving away from Japanese influences, and modernizing tradition. For example, "Jeongya" (1949), embroidered by Kim Hye-kyung, a professor at Ewha's Embroidery Department, depicts a woman in a hanbok reading by her fireplace. The 1960s saw the emergence of abstract embroidery forms, such as "Birds Trying to Catch the Sun" by Choi Yoo-hyun, a national intangible cultural asset.

The exhibition revisits Korean modern and contemporary embroidery through the perspective of contemporary art. (Courtesy of the MMCA) 

The exhibition even allows visitors to try their hands at embroidery. There are expert lecture programs such as modern and contemporary embroidery experience workshops with contemporary artists. Visitors receive traditional embroidery kits, so they can practice Korean-style embroidery on their own. 

"Korean Embroidery in Modern Times: The Birds Trying to Catch the Sun" will be held at the MMCA, Deoksugung Palace until Sunday, August 4, 2024.