A Day in Jeonju: Journey into the most Korean of cities
Date May 07, 2024
JEONJU Intl. Film Festival.
Since May 1, Jeonju has been buzzing with excitement as the Jeonju International Film Festival kicked off its 25th anniversary this year. A total of 232 films from 43 countries will be screened May 1-10. Unlike other film festivals in Korea, the Jeonju IFF focuses on films by auteurs or independent films. So if you’re a film buff, you’ll likely find something unique and special at this festival.
Every May, Jeonju holds the Jeonju International Film Festival. (Courtesy of Jeonju IFF)
What’s more, the city’s Jeonju Cinetour X programs allow participants to enjoy Jeonju while viewing films outdoors (X Walk), engaging with independent film actors (X Meet) or listening to live performances (X Music). The venues vary and most of these programs are offered for free on a first-come-first-served basis during the film festival.
“All the Long Nights,” the latest film by renowned Japanese director Sho Miyake, opened this year’s festival. The movie is a touching story of friendship and solidarity between a woman with premenstrual syndrome and a man with panic disorder. The final film of the festival is “Matt and Mara.” Directed by Canadian Kazik Radwanski, the movie follows a married university professor who reunites with a man from her past.
Jeonju’s Hanok Village exudes a peaceful beauty. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
Jeonju is the most Korean city in the country. As the birthplace of the Joseon Dynasty, it is steeped in Korean history and tradition. In particular, Jeonju is called the most Korean city because of its “Hanok Village.” With about 700 traditional Korean houses, the densely packed Hanok Village neighborhood is one of the city’s most popular attractions. You can enjoy a leisurely stroll through the alleys there and sample a variety of street food, too.
Within the Hanok Village, you’ll see people dressed in colorful Hanbok. The scenes are reminiscent of those from historical dramas or movies. Hanbok can be rented from shops in the village, so if you want a unique experience, explore this part of Korea donned in traditional attire.
Many people in the Hanok Village like to wear hanbok. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
Jeonju also offers various traditional Korean cultural activities for you to experience. You can get a taste of traditional culture at the Jeonju Korean Traditional Wine Museum, the Jeonju Crafts Exhibition Hall, the Gangam Museum of Calligraphy and the Choi Myeong Hee Literature Center. You can also try traditional games such as jegichagi (similar to hacky sack), ttangttameokgi (hopscotch) and tuho (throwing arrows into a container). You can also try your hand at creating keepsakes from clay, Hanji (traditional paper) and buchae (traditional fans). Jeonju is famous for its pottery and these other handicrafts.
Gyeonggijeon Shrine features the only extant royal portrait of King Taejo displayed publicly. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
Near the Hanok Village, you can find Gyeonggijeon Shrine, Jeondong Catholic Cathedral and other cultural heritage sites. These sites make Jeonju an ideal city for walking tours. Gyeonggijeon Shrine sits just outside of the Hanok Village. This shrine is the only place in Korea that displays an official portrait of the Joseon Dynasty’s founder King Taejo. Other royal portraits of Taejo were destroyed in past wars. Gyeonggijeon Shrine is also home to the Royal Portrait Museum and the Jeonju Sago Archives. Besides Joseon Dynasty court records, six portraits of Joseon kings are preserved there.
Gyeonggijeon Shrine boasts a dense bamboo forest. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
In addition to Gyeonggijeon Shrine’s historical significance, its grounds provide a great place to take a stroll as they include a dense bamboo forest. The tiled roofs, low walls and lush bamboo trees come together to create a stunning landscape and one of the best photo spots in Jeonju. There are also ginkgo trees and pear trees that are more than 400 years old, and they blend well with the traditional architecture and walls. It’s a great place to visit any time of year, as the scenery changes depending on the season.
Jeondong Catholic Cathedral gives visitors a taste of Korea’s beautiful architectural heritage. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
Jeondong Catholic Cathedral, directly across from Gyeonggijeon Shrine, was selected as one of Korea’s three most beautiful churches. The towering cathedral creates a unique landscape beside the low walls of the Hanok Village.
Jeondong Catholic Cathedral is the site of Korea’s first Catholic martyrdom and was the first western-style building to be built in the area. After walking around the grounds of the cathedral, you can take a look inside if no Mass is being held. The high vaulted ceilings, tall stone columns and sunlight-filled stained glass windows combine to create a hallowed atmosphere.
Kongnamulgukbap is one of Jeonju’s signature dishes. (Photo by Kim Byoung-gu, Hongcomm.)
Now that you’ve strolled through the tranquil Hanok Village and explored Jeonju’s bustling streets, it's time to seek out the city’s unique flavors. Kongnamulgukbap (bean sprout rice soup) is one of Jeonju’s signature dishes. Kongnamulgukbap restaurants can be found all over the city. The dish is a mixture of broth, bean sprouts, kimchi and rice, all served in one pot. Jeonju’s unique touch is to top the soup with lots of chopped and boiled squid.
A bowl of kongnamulgukbap is the best way to completely drink in the flavor of Jeonju after catching a movie at the Jeonju IFF or touring the Hanok Village and its surroundings.
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