Jang – the soul of Korean cooking – goes global
Date Dec 02, 2024
Meju (fermented soybean blocks) drying under the eaves at Sunchang Gochujang Folk Village (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization’s PhotoKorea)
As the fermented sauces that define Korean cuisine, jang contain both culinary excellence and profound cultural significance. Master artisan Ki Soon-do, who preserves Korea’s jang-making traditions, describes it as “the backbone of our cuisine, playing a crucial role in shaping our unique cultural identity.” This cornerstone of Korean food culture interweaves traditional housing styles, seasonal customs, folk beliefs and scientific innovation.
Jang get their start from meju, fermented soybean blocks formed through traditional methods. Following the autumn harvest, artisans steam and mash soybeans, shaping them into blocks that ferment throughout winter. These blocks, when submerged in brine, yield ganjang (soy sauce) and doenjang (soybean paste). The fermentation occurs in breathable onggi jars that regulate the flow of air and moisture so natural processes can develop jang’s signature blend of umami, saltiness, sweetness and earthiness over months or years.
Jangdok (fermentation pots) for traditional sauces at JookJangYeon in Pohang (Photos courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization’s PhotoKorea)
Jang-making has historically united Korean families across generations, preserving ancestral recipes and traditions. Some families maintain ssiganjang (seed soy sauce) that spans centuries, embodying their heritage. Master Ki emphasizes this connection, noting that “Ssiganjang connects us to our origins, reminding us where our heritage comes from.” Her own seed soy sauce achieved international recognition when it was featured at a state banquet during U.S. President Donald Trump’s 2017 visit to Korea.
International appreciation for jang continues to grow, propelled by Korea’s expanding cultural influence and the sauces’ rich flavors. Global chefs are incorporating jang into fusion cuisines, while tourists are coming to Korea to experience its food culture. The K-Gourmet Belt initiative promotes jang-making regions like Jeollabuk-do Province’s Sunchang, halfway between Jeonju and Gwangju. There, cultural engagement is fostering sustainable tourism with visitors learning traditional sauce-making from master artisans.
Contemporary adaptations demonstrate jang’s enduring appeal. In July 2023, the hamburger chain Shake Shack introduced its “Korean Heritage” menu. The jang-based items on it exemplify how traditional Korean flavors are influencing international cuisine and spurring innovative culinary creations.
Charcoal, red peppers and hanji (traditional paper) go into the geumjul ropes hung around jangdok. The folk custom is meant to ward off evil spirits that could interfere with the fermentation process. (Photos courtesy of Image Today)
Master Ki approaches jang-making as a sacred practice, stating, “Making jang is akin to building blessings; it is a noble act in itself.” This perspective highlights jang’s expansive role: More than just seasoning, it represents patience, harmony with nature and respect for ancestors. Through her work, she is ensuring that this cultural legacy persists for future generations.
International tourists making jang at last April’s “Sunchang Jang Festival” (Photo courtesy of Sunchang Fermentation Tourism Foundation)
Jang-making is a living tradition that combines culinary expertise with community values. It is now up for official worldwide recognition with UNESCO set to name it an Intangible Cultural Heritage. From humble family kitchens to international restaurants, jang culture continues to evolve while maintaining its essence, offering both a taste of Korea’s history and a glimpse of its culinary future.
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