Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley: Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion – Haengnidan-gil – Haenggung-dong Mural Village – Hwaseong Haenggung Palace – Suwon Tongdak (Fried Chicken) Street – Flying Suwon

Suwon’s nightscape offers visitors an exotic blend of old and new. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)

Suwon’s Haenggung-dong is home to Hwaseong Fortress, a beautiful UNESCO-inscribed cultural heritage site built during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). To preserve the impressive architectural heritage there, development is restricted, and many of the buildings are old and worn. However, it’s a place where walls from the late Joseon period cozy up to modern structures, creating a unique charm. Many festivals and events are held at the fortress throughout the year, and its many attractions make it worth visiting in any season.

Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Built during the Joseon Dynasty, Hwaseong Fortress is Suwon’s most famous landmark. King Jeongjo (r. 1776-1800) commissioned its construction to protect the tomb of his father, Crown Prince Sado (1735-1762). Work began in 1794 and was completed in 1796. Because a large portion of the original fortress was well-preserved and the rest could be meticulously reconstructed from the extant original plans, it’s considered architecturally significant and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

Paldalmun Gate, in the south, is one of Hwaseong Fortress’s four major gates. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)

A trail at Hwaseong Fortress spans the old walls and connects the four main gates: Changnyongmun in the east, Hwaseomun in the west, Paldalmun in the south and Janganmun in the north. The fortress has a circumference of 5.7km, and the full walk usually takes around three hours, including time for photos. During the day, you can enjoy the park-like setting – there are ponds, streams, trees and flowers along the wall – and in the evening, you can see sparkling night views.

Buksumun (Hwahongmun Gate) straddles Suwoncheon, the stream that runs north-south through Hwaseong Fortress. The unique and beautiful sight of water flowing through Buksumun’s floodgate makes this one of the most photographed spots in Haenggung-dong. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)

If the full 5.7km course is too daunting, board the Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley at Yeonmudae (Eastern Command Post) for a comfortable ride. The trolley is pulled by a limousine painted like the one used by King Sunjong (r. 1907-1910), Korea’s last monarch, and the passenger cars resemble the palanquins used to carry Joseon kings. There are two routes: The “circular” route starts from Yeonmudae, passes by Hwaseong Haenggung Palace and returns to Yeonmudae, taking about 20 minutes. The “tour” route starts at Hwaseong Haenggung, passes by Yeonmudae and Paldalmun and returns to Hwaseong Haenggung, taking about 50 minutes. Each seat is equipped with an audio system that allows you to listen to commentary in Korean, English, Chinese or Japanese through your own earphones. The trolley travels at about 20km/h and can accommodate up to 36 passengers per trip.

The Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley passes by all the area’s major attractions. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)

On a high cliff east of Buksumun, you’ll find Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion. It’s one of the fortress’s four watchtowers and was originally built as a military command post. Due to its unique floor plan and roof shape, the pavilion is considered the most creative structure in Hwaseong Fortress – it looks different depending on which angle you look at it. Inside the fortress is a small pond called Yongyeon, which reflects King Jeongjo’s appreciation for harmonious gardens featuring ponds, islands and pavilions. In the summer, lotus leaves and blossoms add to the tranquility.