Writer. Kim Soyeon

K-pop, K-fashion, K-culture and other elements of Korean have been gaining popularity around the world these days. But, looking back in history, there was also a time when Korean culture and fashion, known as “Goryeo style,” was popular throughout Northeast Asia. The two-piece style consisting of pants and jeogori (jacket) for men, and skirt and jeogori for women, as depicted in Goguryeo murals, clearly reveals the DNA of Hanbok. Throughout its long history, Hanbok has maintained its distinctive characteristics without change and is beloved as a symbol that reveals Korean identity.

Embracing Versatility and Adaptability

How does Hanbok differ from typical Western clothing? All clothing is made by adapting flat fabric to fit the three-dimensional human body. The method of creating three-dimensional clothing varies across cultures. In Western traditions, fabric is cut according to body curves, and darts are utilized to actively create dimensionality in clothing. Western garments are produced in precisely planned forms using standardized lines.

However, Hanbok differs in that the final lines of the garment are not determined during the cutting process but rather by the craftsperson’s skill. Areas expected to be curved, such as the git (collar), doryeon (hemline) and baerae (sleeve seam), are cut in straight or diagonal lines without predetermining the finished line. The necessary lines are created during the sewing process, resulting in non-standardized lines.

Additionally, Hanbok uses details like pleats and slits to create a design that appears flat but only forms three-dimensional volume when worn. This is why Koreans have developed their own unique sewing techniques. One such technique is called kkaekki or gopseul, used to emphasize the finished lines of sheer fabrics. This distinctive Korean method involves creating shallow seam allowances on thin fabric, completely cutting away the stitched seam allowance, then folding and stitching again to make the stitch line itself a decorative element.

As a result, while Western clothing has a fixed form, Hanbok has variability where the silhouette is created by how it’s worn. The finished appearance and elegance depend on the wearer’s movement and wearing method, to the extent that pulling the skirt hem in different ways can create various looks. Since the silhouette changes with the wind, Hanbok has earned the nickname “clothing of the wind.”

Hanbok is also a generous garment that anyone can wear regardless of size—whether large or small. This roominess creates a rich, voluminous form that is neither uniform nor standardized. Worn in layers to adorn the body, Hanbok complements Korean body types exceptionally well, allowing Koreans to present themselves at their most elegant.

Nature-friendly Clothing

From ancient times, white has been a color that Koreans have favored and actively used. In ancient times, white was revered as a symbol of the sun and loved as a natural color that aligned with Koreans’ desire to harmonize with nature. White became the primary color of clothing due to the Confucian philosophy that valued frugality and simplicity while distancing from vibrant colors, as well as its emphasis on ritual. This explains why colored cotton was discarded and only cotton that produced white fiber survived. This preference for white led to the development of various light colors that give a white impression. As a result, the overall color palette of Hanbok closely resembles white.

Of course, on special occasions, primary colors were used to break the monotony of white and enhance the atmosphere of holidays, weddings and celebrations. In particular, saekdong (multicolored stripes), formed by the arrangement and repetition of several primary colors, represents the pinnacle of luxurious color expression. Besides dyeing, new colors were created by layering two thin, transparent fabrics of different colors. This was also a wise method of protecting rivers from pollution caused by dyeing.

White fabric was applied at the neck and wrists, not only displaying visual cleanliness but also containing the wisdom of reducing laundry by detaching and replacing these parts where body soil accumulates most. When making components of clothing such as sleeves and seop (front overlap panels), even if there wasn’t enough fabric for the required amount, additional fabric would be attached and transformed into a beautiful aesthetic feature. To ensure no fabric was wasted, leftover pieces were joined to make patchwork or saekdong, maximizing beauty with flexibility. For everyday clothes, rather than obvious decorations like embroidery or pictures, fabric was starched and ironed to create a smooth texture and soft luster, creating elegance through the subtle beauty of unadorned fabric. This well reflects the Korean aesthetic sensibility that pursues subtle elegance.

The Center of Hallyu

The gat (traditional Korean hat) featured in the movie “Kingdom” has received great attention and has been reinterpreted as a collection item by global designers, gaining popularity with many. During the PyeongChang Winter Olympics, many spectators wondered where they could purchase the unique nambawi (winter hat) worn by the assistants during the entrance ceremony and award ceremonies. Since ancient times, Koreans have worn hats appropriate to their social status from head to toe, completing their appearance. This is why international visitors to Korea during the port-opening period were amazed by the variety of Korean hats and called it “the country of hats.” Even now, people around the world recognize Korean hats as stylish fashion items.

In recent years, Koreans have moved away from wearing traditional Hanbok in its original form—such as the chima-jeogori (skirt and jacket) for women or baji-jeogori (pants and jacket) for men, along with various po (overcoats). Instead, people now enjoy Hanbok culture by creatively mixing and matching traditional elements with modern clothing. This includes applying characteristic elements like goreum (ribbon ties) and dongjeong (detachable collar accent) to modern designs or layering Hanbok items over everyday clothes. The combination of Hanbok and modern clothing reveals individuality and adds fun, expanding Hanbok’s versatility. Young people are changing the meaning of Hanbok from formal ceremonial wear to clothing that can be worn, photographed, and enjoyed, suggesting that the festive enjoyment of Hanbok life will spread more positively. As Korea’s global influence continues to strengthen, Hanbok’s timeless beauty attracts increasing admiration worldwide, firmly establishing it as a cornerstone of the Korean Wave phenomenon.