Suncheon: The city where nature thrives
Date Jul 29, 2024
A panoramic view of Suncheon Bay National Garden (Photo courtesy of the Suncheon Bay National Garden)
In today’s world, places transform rapidly. Neighborhoods evolve beyond recognition and beloved haunts vanish with changing trends. This often leaves us yearning for the past. Enter Suncheon: a city with old villages, thousand-year-old temples and pristine nature. People, nature and culture coexist harmoniously within its limits and time passes slowly.
A view of Naganeupseong Folk Village in the morning (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
Even after 400 years, Naganeupseong Folk Village is still full of human warmth. It was built during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) and is the best-preserved of all Joseon-era towns. The fortress wall, government buildings and more than 300 traditional houses remain intact. Built centuries ago, homes in the town are still inhabited. The huddled thatched roofs are not just there to conjure the past; they still keep the villagers safe from the elements.
The village that gave rise to Naganeupseong Folk Village was founded in 1397 by General Kim Bil-gin, a native who encircled the homes and buildings there with an earthen wall to shield it from Japanese invaders. Later, in 1626, General Lim Kyung-il was appointed as Nagan’s military commander and built the stone fortress that survives to this day.
Once you pass through Nakpungnu, the pavilion at the Folk Village’s east gate, you will come to a path that passes thatched-roof structures and stone walls. You can sense how the common people of Joseon lived as you see old features of village life like a water wheel and jangseung (Korean totem poles regarded as guardians).
From the top of the fortress wall in the southwest, you can get an excellent view of the tranquility that pervades Naganeupseong. There are also several guesthouses in the village if you would like to experience staying in a traditional house.
Naganeupseong Folk Village offers up a variety of Joseon-era dwellings and scenes. (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
A panoramic view of Seonamsa Temple (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
While the calm beauty of Naganeupseong Folk Village, Suncheon Bay National Garden and Suncheonman Wetland is set amid sprawling landscapes, Seonamsa Temple is tucked within a verdant mountain valley.
Seonamsa lies at the end of an uphill trail, but the slope is gradual. A hike on a hot, humid summer day can sound intimidating, but the surrounding long-branched trees provide a shady canopy, and the adjacent mountain stream also helps to lower the temperature.
The first thing that greets visitors before arriving at Seonamsa is the Seungseongyo, a rainbow-shaped stone bridge. A little further ahead, Gangseonnu Pavilion stands near the entrance of the temple, but before heading on, take a moment to scramble down from the trail and jump over to one of the large rocks in the middle of the stream.
Once there, you can see the pavilion perfectly centered inside the bridge’s arch, with a forest-green backdrop. The lush greenery, cool stream, the stone dragon head protruding from the peak of the Seungseongyo’s arch and Gangseonnu off in the distance – it all comes together to create an iconic image of Korea’s beauty.
Gangseonnu Pavilion from under the Seungseongyo Bridge (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
One of the most treasured temples in the Jeolla provinces, Seonamsa is over 1,500 years old. The temple comprises more than 20 buildings. Among its highlights is Palsangjeon Hall, which enshrines eight paintings depicting the life of Shakyamuni, the most-revered Buddha.
A panoramic view of Space Hub inside Suncheon Bay National Garden (Photo courtesy of Suncheon Bay National Garden)
Suncheon Bay National Garden was designated Korea’s No. 1 National Garden in September 2015. It opened in 2014, following year-long renovations at the site of the 2013 Suncheon Bay International Garden Expo. The Garden Expo returned in 2023 – this time utilizing not only Suncheon Bay National Garden but also the entire city.
The garden was reorganized and reopened in March 2024. It now features attractions like Space Hub, a runway-shaped garden; a “Yumi’s Cells”-themed maze, based on the webtoon that inspired a TV series and movie; and an experience center called Secret Adventure.
The water parade is a romantic way to enjoy a summer night. (Photo courtesy of Suncheon Bay National Garden)
The garden maze with a “Yumi’s Cells” theme (Photo courtesy of Suncheon Bay National Garden)
Duda House features a digital puppet show. (Photo courtesy of Suncheon Bay National Garden)
It’s not easy to take in all of Suncheon Bay National Garden in a day; it contains World Garden, which itself holds 11 country-themed gardens designed by respective national teams to highlight their own traditional styles and flavors; Theme Garden; Participation Garden; and Landscape Garden. If you don't feel like walking, you can also book a ride on the Ferris wheel, cruise the Dongcheon River on the electric boat Garden Dream or jump in a private Sky Cube pod on Asia’s only personal rapid transit (PRT) system. They all travel to different areas, so it's a good idea to see where you want to go in advance and book a ride accordingly. But the fastest way to see all of Suncheon Bay National Garden is from the shuttle bus.
Summer highlights include the Summer Garden Club Festival, featuring garden club parties and night tours aboard the shuttle bus. There are work-vacation packages that combine work, relaxation and sightseeing with family-friendly accommodations. Also, you can find knowledgeable guides who share fascinating Suncheon lore and reveal the garden’s nocturnal allure. These popular night garden tours provide a cooler alternative to daytime visits but are limited to 20 people.
Garden workcation spaces allow visitors to catch up on work, rest and sightsee, alone or with their families. (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
Suncheonman Wetland seen from above (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
When you think of Suncheon, one of the places that may come to mind is Suncheonman Wetland. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Suncheonman Wetland is one of the five largest coastal wetlands in the world, with 55.4 km2 of reed beds and 22.6 km2 of tidal flats.
The mouth of Suncheon Bay greets visitors with breathtaking views. Dense reeds act as environmental guardians and protect the tidal flats and wetlands. These reeds transform with the seasons, displaying vibrant colors and mesmerizing ripples. The wetlands beneath are more than mere soil; they embody time, life and history.
Scientists estimate that each centimeter of mudflat represents a year of accumulation. This means the current landscape likely took millennia to form, making Suncheon Bay a living testament to nature’s patient artistry.
The wide marshland is home to more than 110 species of plants, as well as numerous other creatures, such as mudskippers, clams and crabs. In addition, migratory birds of all kinds come to visit without fail as the seasons change.
Boardwalks wind through the reed beds of Suncheonman Wetland. (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
To fully experience Suncheonman Wetland, stroll along boardwalks that wind through the area. A deep channel snakes through the reed beds, creating a mesmerizing landscape. The path leads to Yongsan Observatory, atop Yongsan Mountain, where you can see the dragon (yong) that is said to face Suncheon. At 77 m above sea level, the observatory isn’t very high, but the climb still takes 40-50 minutes. Your effort is richly rewarded at the summit with breathtaking vistas that make the uphill climb worth the trek. From this vantage point, the sunset’s golden hues bathe the sprawling reed beds and create an indescribably serene panorama that offers up a moment of pure tranquility.
A Suncheonman Bay Wetland sunset (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)
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