Halved cabbages are salted as part of the kimjang process in Chungcheongnam-do Province, November 24, 2023. (Photo by Antony Antoniou)

This year marks the 10th anniversary of UNESCO’s recognition of kimjang as a cultural heritage of humanity. Kimjang is Korea’s centuries-old tradition of preparing its world-famous fermented vegetable side dish kimchi before the icy winter months. It also reinforces a sense of strong cultural community and family bonds. Kimjang is about food, people and the land. In this way, it is one of the central tenets of Korean society and tradition.

Derived from the words “kimchi” and “jang” (which means “making”), kimjang is the process of families and communities gathering to prepare vast quantities of kimchi to last through the winter months. Traditionally held in late autumn, typically in November, the practice is a testament to Korean unity and cooperation.

Every year, Koreans like Kim Dong-il of Chungcheongnam-do Province gather with family to make kimchi based on their traditional recipes. Kim, who cultivates his own ingredients on a small plot of land south of Seoul, spends days with his family harvesting and preparing what he says is “Korea's most important dish.”

Kim’s son-in-law, Antony D. Antoniou, an Irish national and a copyeditor at The Korea Times in Seoul, partook in this year's family kimjang weekend, noting that the process was about much more than the product. “It was a time for family, good food, hard work and a catch-up,” he said. “As a kind of outsider, it was a privilege to witness this age-old tradition, and it gave me a new appreciation for just how much work goes into making kimchi.”

Some 1,000 residents and tourists take part in kimchi-making festival hosted by the Seoul Agro-Fisheries & Food Corporation at Garak Mall in Songpa district in Seoul on November 15. A total of 10,000 boxes of kimchi made were distributed to those in need and to welfare facilities. ( Photo by Hankook Ilbo Choi Joo-yeon)

Kimchi’s popularity is not confined to the Korean Peninsula. According to the Korea Customs Service, exports of kimchi rose to 33,828 tons in the first nine months of this year, an increase of 8.1 percent from the same period last year. This comes as the “K-Food+” sector experienced year-on-year growth of 1.2 percent as of the third week of November, reaching a collective export figure of US$10.48 billion.

This growing international appetite for kimchi is illustrated by developments in the United States. Rep. Young Kim (R-CA) renewed calls on Dec. 6 during a House session for support to designate Nov. 22 as Kimchi Day. Individual states there officially celebrate the day. Argentina observes Kimchi Day as well.

November 22 is Kimchi Day in Korea and has been so since 2019. The day honors the tradition of harvesting the last crops before frost and ice take hold of the land and preserving vegetables through fermentation for storage over the winter months. At this time of the year, one can see families and elderly enthusiasts hauling large bags and trollies of cabbage, radish, chives and more into their apartments. What was a necessity – and still is – has become an annual ritual. Necessity is the mother of invention and kimchi is that great invention of a centuries-old need for nutrition from food and connection to family.

The diversity and variety of kimchi across the Korean Peninsula illustrate the patchwork of local peoples and the different geographical conditions that imbibe their cultures. The varieties of base vegetables, such as cabbage or radish, are paired with varieties of flavoring, such as heavily salted or spicy.

A distinct variation is dongchimi, a widely popular kimchi known for its refreshing and tangy flavor. It is made with white Korean radishes and other vegetables in a brine solution with various seasonings like ginger, garlic and chili peppers and provides a chill-free alternative to the more familiar red, spicy kimchi.

The health benefits of kimchi are increasingly becoming recognized outside of Korea. In a review of clinical studies published in April, the Journal of Ethnic Foods found that kimchi can be an effective treatment for obesity, irritable bowel syndrome and other general health issues.

The rapid urbanization of Korea and its adoption of culture and food from the West and elsewhere have changed many aspects of a society whose culture reaches back through thousands of winters in the folds and valleys of this mountainous peninsula. Despite these challenges, the essence of kimjang remains deeply ingrained in Korean communities and provides an exciting and healthy dish for people all over the world.